Are You Cleansing Properly?

Cleaning seems like such a simple and menial task. Something we have done since we were all around the age of thirteen. But, did you know that by simply influencing your way of cleansing can make a big difference in the overall appearance of how your skin looks and feels? To a lot of people, cleansing may consist of washing with nothing more than soap and water. But in reality, cleansing the right way, with the proper products and tools can virtually change your skin. I recently started adding more time onto my nightly routine, which feels more like a holistic ritual to me, now. In doing so, I have noticed such a drastic change in my skin. If you want, glow-y fresh dewy skin. It all starts with cleaning properly.

Water can only remove a small percentage of dirt and oil on the surface of your skin, which highlights and adds emphasis on the importance of cleansing. The ingredients in cleansers react with water to form an emulsion on the skin which remove pollutants, oil, toxins and dead skin that can lead to a drab looking complexion. If not cleansing properly, our skin can't take in the full benefits of products like serums and replenishing creams.

Let's start with the basics.
There are three main types of cleansers.

Gels: Ideal for oil and breakout prone skin. Also for those who wear a lot of heavy face makeup. Gel washes off leaving almost no product behind. Gives a complexion that squeaky clean, tightened feeling.

Oils: Best for dry skin. Cleaning oils leave the skin soft. Gives a complexion a very hydrated finish.

Lotions/Creams/Milks: These can leave a film on the skin, which makes them more ideal for dry and mature skin. If these are used in your daily routine, you need to be using an exfoliant at least twice a week, if not daily immediately following cleansing.


With a diverse range of cleansing devices, cloths and pads at our disposal, it's sometimes confusing to know what to wash your skin with. Most estheticians and agree that anything that offers mild exfoliation is superior to using just your fingers. When you use a cloth, or Clarisonic it helps to dislodge dead skin and purify the outermost part of the complexion.

I encourage you to take the proper steps in cleansing. Spend more time with your face in the evening. Not only does it feel great, but you will reap the benefits of healthy skin.

1. Temperature. By adjusting the water to warm, you are softening your skin allowing for maximum product penetration and exfoliation to occur. If your water is too hot it can burn the skin and cause broken capillaries. If your water is too cold, it can prevent your pores from opening up to receive a full cleanse. Splash your face with warm water three to eight times prior to applying any cleanser.

2. Cleanse. Cleanse in curcular motions without scrubbing for a minimum of thirty seconds. If you want to use something like a Clarisonic at this point, I encourage you to do so. Then, let your cleanser sit on your skin for one to two minutes. (a very important, skipped step by many)

3. Removal. Rinse your face thoroughly. Use a washcloth saturated with water to remove excess cleanser from the skin. If any cleansing residue is left on the surface of the skin, it can dry out or cause irritation.

4. Dry. Pat your face with a towel. Don't rub your face while trying to dry it. By doing this, you can potentially cause dry patches, tears in the skin and irritation.


I recommend you limit your cleansing to twice a day. If your skin is more dry, try only once a day and splash with water and a hydrating toner in the morning.


My Top 10 Cleansers:

FOR ACNE-PRONE SKIN:
DermaQuest Anti-Bacterial Enzyme Cleanser
Harnn Water Lily Detoxifying Face Wash


FOR SENSITIVE SKIN:
Dr. Hauschka Cleansing Cream


FOR COMBINATION SKIN:
Origins Checks and Balances Frothy Face Wash
Aubrey Organics Blue Green Algae Facial Cleansing Lotion (Organic/natural) (this is what I use currently)

FOR NORMAL SKIN:
Lily.B Rose Hip Infused Cleanse (Organic/natural)
Laura Mercier One-Step Cleanser


FOR DRY/MATURE SKIN:
Duchess Marden Damascena Creme Cleanser (Organic/natural)
Clarins Gentle Foaming Cleanser
Decleor Aroma Cleanse Cleansing Milk



What to use for normal skin: Since it doesn't fall under the category of dry or oily skin it needs to be treated differently. It usually tends to respond best to gentle cleansers that are pH balanced. Using a cleanser with too high of a pH will dry out the skin and break down the protective acid mantle.

For mature skin: Exfoliation is key. Use a cleanser with alphahydroxy acids (AHAs) like glycolic and lactic acid. They help remove dead skin cells smoothing the surface of the skin. Milk and cream cleansers are also another option because they are soothing.

For acne-prone skin: Skin should be cleansed with a cleanser containing tea tree, salicylic, phytic, lactic or glycolic acid and even products with small amounts of benzoyl peroxide. You don't want to over dry or irritate acne-prone skin so make sure to use a cleanser containing something soothing as well, like lavender or chamomile.

For dry skin: Opt for a hydrating cleanser with ingredients like hyaluronic acid to soften and hydrate. Also wash with milk cleansers or those with more of a cream-based consistency.

For combination skin: This skin-type requires a completely different routine in terms of cleansing since it encompasses some oily qualities and some dry qualities. Go for a cleanser that is detoxifying and exfoliating. Tea tree oil is a great ingredient for this skin because it wakes the skin and rids it of bacteria.




I hope this taught you a little something you can add into your daily routine! If not that, I hope it inspired you to take a little more time for yourself at night so that you can wake up ready to brave the day as your best you!
If you have any questions, please feel free to ask them! Also, comment/subscribe/follow my blog. Let me know what you want to read! I'm working on a few other blogs and maybe getting a video camera too to start making videos. Since I am blogging for you I would like to blog things you want to read. Leave your suggestions, please!


Wishing my face were clean right at this very moment,
Jessica.

Aging Gracefully

It honestly amazes me every single day how many new discoveries we are making in this world of ours; particularly, in the world of skin. Who knew that certain simple key ingredients could virtually rewind the effects of aging.
Let's face it, it's going to happen to all of us. It's a process of life, but it doesn't have to take an even more serious toll on our bodies and our faces unless we let it. I'm all for au naturel and aging gracefully, as I never see myself wanting to get dermal fillers, botox or plastic surgery. There isn't necessarily anything wrong with these treatments, but sometimes a 'quick fix' isn't for everyone and with new advances in technology and ingredient discoveries, we don't necessarily have to go that route. We should all start taking steps as early as possible to slow down the process of aging. Routine is key. Now, I don't know about you, but I definitely want to be one of those 45+ year old's who looks 30.

I was doing some research the other day and while reading up on some new skin care products, I found some articles. Here's what I was able put together:

In the body, certain hormones like DHEA and melatonin have been noted as having a lasting effect on diminishing the signs of aging. We all know that with a simple pill or medical procedure our troubles can be ‘fixed’ but with new science and technology, we have actually been able to input these benefits into many skin care products. 

We all know that our own bodies produce melatonin. Yes? Yes. Melatonin is a hormone naturally made by our brains. It is linked to controlling both the wake and sleep cycles of our bodies. Melatonin is also a new discovery in skin care and is thought to offer many anti-aging skin benefits.

Melatonin is classified as a 'terminal antioxidant' because once it has oxidized it forms stable end results and cannot return to its original state. 

When DHEA is used on the skin it is first absorbed before enzymes in the skin recognize it and convert it into either an anabolic or androgenic hormone. Melatonin works to strengthen the skin by renewing the cells. Our bodies don't require large amounts of topical melatonin to work and make a difference. In fact, small concentrations can have a serious and lasting effect on the skin. DHEA topically fends off destructive enzymes. DHEA causes any ingredient to be absorbed quickly. It helps keep the enzymes that feed of oxidation at bay which helps to preserve DNA. Not only does it do this but it also acts as an anti-inflammatory.

Another thing to note is that ingredients like blueberry, jojoba (which is a plant derived oil closest to our skins natural sebum), grape seed and vitamin E restore youthful properties to maturing skin.

So, when looking to choose a good, effective anti-aging restoring moisturizer, serum or eye cream, keep this simple new knowledge in mind. Remember to read your ingredients! Just because it has a fancy name and a fancy price doesn't mean it contains fancy things!

If you are not sporting 15+ sunscreen, I highly recommend you pick up a good SPF! As heavenly as our sun looks and feels, it's harmful UVA rays are completely detrimental to our skin and causes us to age virtually 10+ years. So even in the winter, wear your sunscreen! Just because it's snowing doesn't mean you're still not getting UVA rays from the ozone. 

Wishing you a youthful appearance and a laugh or two,

Jessica.

Why Serums?

In the world of skincare, a serum is a highly concentrated liquid formulation that is specially designed as a target treatment for a certain skin condition. Not only do I want to use a serum every night, but I feel it is a must for the health of my skin. One magnificent little serum got me away from a topical I had been using from a Dermatologist months and months and months ago. To be able to say that I proudly made a switch over to something completely natural from something so harsh, stripping and unhealthy for my skin makes me want to give you all of the information I have! I go to bed feeling wonderful every night and wake up in the morning feeling wonderful and confident in the overall appearance of my skin. Who doesn't want that? I want you to have that!

When I was having the bulk of my skin issues, for one reason or another, I found that most Dermatologists didn't take the time to actually explain my skin issues. What I know, I learned from esthiology school as well as countless hours on the internet, my own fascination with health and skin, and countless hours reading a Dermatology book. 

I want to share something with you about what a Dermatologist won't tell you. Any type of topical that contains benzoyl peroxide or adapalene is way too drying for anyone's skin. I don't care who you are and what type of skin issues you may be having. Believe me when I say that there are other options out there that are so much better for us! Our skin is smart! When it is being over-dryed, our skin starts to produce more sebum (or oil). With these detrimental products, all they are really doing is stripping our skin completely. Most dermatologists recommend a topical with these hazardous ingredients for men and women who are trying to combat acne. These men and women (including myself) usually have skin that has a little trouble shedding on it's own due to particularly sticky sebum that acts as a glue and binds cells in the stratum corneum together so they cannot slough off easily. (This issue is more common than one would think). Adapalene and benzoyl peroxide basically increase CTR (see Simply Understanding Your Skin). 

Sounds great right? Wrong. They do it in a way that is unhealthy because they do not protect our skin from future environmental factors, free radicals and other bacteria that may make their way onto our skin. This is when new breakouts form. You are basically ensuring that your skin is a breeding ground for bacteria at all times. 

(If you are currently using topical meds from a Dermatologist and they work for you, hey great! Everyone's skin is different. This is not a blog to put the medical people down in any way. I just have gone through all the medical pish-posh and am telling you as your esthetician and friend that there is hope in more natural, holistic remedies found through my own battles, struggles and breakouts that are better for the health of your skin and also the appearance.)

Because of our own personal needs and wants that vary, as well as our skin types; so should the serums we use. 

A serum in my opinion, can be the most effective skincare item anyone could possibly purchase. Let me explain why. A serum is jam-packed with nutrients, vitamins and anti-oxidants for your skin. Each serum is different. Getting the right serum isn't impossible, either. There are many things to keep in mind when getting the right one to target your skin's issues. 

A serum is typically used as a layering formula, allowing us the opportunity to integrate targeted treatments into our already existing skin care routine.

All of us have different areas we would love to target and fix with our skin. From fine lines to dry skin to loss of elasticity to dullness to hyperpigmentation, there are serums that can aid in the recovery of our skin. Because the delivery systems in serums are so complex, some serums are able to drive their ingredients down into our dermis' (the live layer of skin) promoting rapid healing. If they are not able to drive their ingredients that far, there are things we can do to aid in the product penetration of a serum (stay tuned for a blog).

There is not one product line I will say I love more than another. But I will list some of the best serums I have come across. 

Best Serums:

Avalon Organics Vitamin C Serum Delivers a concentrated amount of Vitamin C for aging protection as well as the antioxidant action of Lemon Bioflavoniods, Melatonin, Organic Green and White Teas. Organic Borage and Flax oils containing omega 3 fatty acids repair cells while nourishing and protecting. This product can be used by all skin types. I use this, and so does mom! She and I both have very different skin types and issues but this works so great for both of us. Oh, and it smells like orange juice! .

Sonya Dakar Omega 3 Repair Contains Omega-3 and Omega-6 fatty acids. Nourishes skin from the inside out with Geranium and lavender extracts that fight blemish-causing bacteria. Lavender has so many natural healing properties and reduce redness and inflammation. Key ingredients stimulate circulation in the skin for really fast healing. Your skin's moisture level will be completely replenished and restored. This serum is super ideal for acne, rosacea and eczema or any other severely drying conditions. I suggest if you are really concerned with your breakouts and they are more cystic and painful, you try this.

Elina Organics' Ambra Lift Serum Ideal for anyone concerned with fine lines and aging. It's amazing how a small amount of this serum can naturally perk-up the most experienced skin. I have seen it happen personally as I worked an event for Bengston Center For Aesthetics and Plastic Surgery. Elina was there doing demo's on several different people with varying skin types. As Baltic Amber as it's performance ingredient, it has been scientifically proven to tighten loose and used-looking skin. Containing silk amino-acids, rise hips and organic aloe for healing and softening. 

If you have any more questions in regard to serums, please feel free to comment or contact me. 

Waking up with beautiful skin,

-Jessica.

Simply Understanding Your Skin

Hello friends! I am sorry for the delay in getting out new posts. I have been extremely overwhelmed with work and with trying to organize my thoughts and blog posts each time I sit down to type. However, these are no excuse for my brief absence, and I'm sorry. I know a few of you have sent me messages asking about certain products and skin issues you are having. I am going to get some blogs out this week for you ladies and gents! Hopefully all of your problems will diminish from there! 

First things first. I want you to understand your skin. I know that sounds ridiculous. "Understanding my skin? Really, Hilzey?" 

Well, really. 

If you want great skin, you must understand how your skin works and how it is put together.

Note that I will try not to get carried away. But keep in mind, I am very passionate about your skin as well as my own and I want so badly for you to have beautiful, healthy skin so you can be your best you. That being said, information is key. I realize this is a lengthy post, but I promise you will learn so much if you take the time to read it. 

As most of you already know, and as I mentioned in my first blog post; your skin is the largest organ of your body. Skin is made up of three parts. The epidermis, dermis and subcutaneous tissue. Note: I am not going to touch base on information from your dermis or subcutaneous tissue tonight.

The Epidermis: Think of your epidermis as the first layer between you and the outside world. Crazy, huh? It does so much for us! We often don't realize that it is responsible for protecting us from environmental factors! Yet another reason to keep it healthy and care for it. Your epidermis is comprised of three different types of cells. Keratinocytes, Melanocytes and Langerhans cells. In short, without getting into my entire education, here's some simple information for you to note: Keratinocytes are the cells that produce keratin (our skins protein). Keratinocytes make up most of our epidermis. Melanocytes are the cells that produce melanin, the pigment responsible for your skin tone and color. And Langerhans cells are essentially the "immune system" of the epidermis. They prevent unwanted foreign substances from penetrating into the skin.

You have 5 different layers of your epidermis. Starting from bottom (by dermis) up (to what you can physically see on your body) you have your Stratum Germanitivum, Stratum Spinosum, Stratum Granulosum, Stratum Lucidium (only on the soles of your feet and palms of your hands) and your Stratum Corneum.

As fantastic as all of these layers are, It is only really important that I focus on two of them. 

All these terms... I know, I know... Stay with me, here. I promise it's going to get real in about two minutes. You will have your "Oh!" moment. (photographs are welcome)

Your Stratum Corneum consists mainly of dead Keratinocytes, lipids and hardened protein that form a protective type of film on the outermost part of your skin. Non-living cells from your Stratum Corneum continuously slough off and are replaced by new ones that from below. Your Stratum Germanitivum is responsible for making new, fresh plump baby cells that take about 2-3 weeks on average to flatten and move up toward your Stratum Corneum. 

I'm sure you've heard the term, "cell turn-over" before. This is what that is. The rate at which your cells from your Stratum Germanitivum can advance to your Stratum Corneum (and then shed off).

So what does all this mean? Now that we have the information and the facts, let me break this down for you.

In short, exfoliation is so important. If you're not already doing something mechanically exfoliating and/or chemically exfoliating for your skin, I suggest you start. Exfoliate every day if you want! I sure do. I want to increase my CTR (cell turn-over rate) so my skin looks and feels like a baby's bottom every day! Ha! ha! Who doesn't want that? It also keeps your skin looking young, plump, fresh and dewy. 

If you are currently battling breakouts, perhaps your CTR is low. I have found that a lot of people that have acne, aren't exfoliating properly. If you do struggle with breakouts, you need a mechanical and chemical exfoliant. Something that is somewhat gentle, yet abrasive, contains some type of acid and anti-oxidant to protect your skin from future free radicals. You need to protect your skin! Serums are a must! (A blog is coming for them, soon!)

Healthy skin should be: Slightly acidic, somewhat moist and smooth. 

There is actually a skin disorder I am going to talk about in a future blog that is a huge player in acne a lot of people have but don't realize they have. The best thing you can do to help this disorder is to exfoliate daily, and then repair your skin's natural Ph and complex with anti-oxidants and omega-3's.

If you are concerned with aging, start increasing your CTR (the earlier the better).

I tell almost everyone I meet to exfoliate. Just the other day, I said to the man at Starbucks who made my decaf, soy, vanilla latte, "Thank you, Sir! Be sure to exfoliate tonight!" 

I obviously didn't. But I wanted to, and probably should have.

A laugh, and a clean exfoliated face,

-Jessica